Protect wild birds from windows. Save birds lives!! Millions of wild birds are killed each year flying into windows. Now you can help reduce this loss of life with WindowAlert Bird Anti-Collision Decals. Butterfly, Hummingbird, Maple Leaf, Snowflake or Transparent Hawk Silhouette designs. Select from packages of 8 to 48 decals.
Finches (house, purple), American goldfinches, pine siskins, lesser goldfinches, chickadees, nuthatches, titmouse (titmice)
Platform Bird Feeders - also called Tray Bird Feeders. Very popular as ground feeders or hanging feeders to attract different birds. Platform Bird Feeders
Woodpecker Feeders - Attracts Woodpeckers and other clinging birds. Can also be called clinging bird feeders, peanut bird feeders, suet bird feeders, tail-prop bird feeders, upside-down hanging bird feeders.
Wire Mesh Bird Feeders – also called Sunflower Feeders.All metal construction. Resistant to squirrel damage. Appealing to both clinging and perching birds.
Sugar water at a 4 to 1 ratio. Four parts water to one part sugar. Bring to a boil to dissolve sugar, then let cool. You can also use convenient packaged nectar mixes.
Wild birds of many types have been killed by flying into glass windows and doors. In fact, according to the Audubon Society, recent evidence shows that collisions with glass may be a major source of avian mortality that's widely overlooked. Experts believe that over 100 million wild birds die each year in collisions with buildings and skyscrapers in the United States and Canada alone.
Although there are several variables which account for bird strikes, the primary cause is reflection. Birds become confused or startled and rush to to cover or open sky; unfortunately they often mistake a reflection for the real thing.
In cities the biggest kills typically occur at night during spring and fall migrations, when building lights appeared to lure birds into deadly collisions. Light-dimming campaigns, such as those led by the Toronto-based Fatal Light Awareness Program, have helped reduce the problem.
The best and most cost effective idea in helping birds avoid window collisions is the use of WindowAlert Decals. WindowAlert is a high-tech decal that may be applied to home and office windows. Each decal contains a component which brilliantly reflects ultraviolet sunlight. This ultraviolet light is invisible to humans, but glows for birds. WindowAlert decals help birds "see" windows and thus avoid striking the glass. Click Here for more information.
Facts About Bird Vision From WindowAlert
Birds enjoy sharper vision than humans. Birds can see certain light frequencies--including ultraviolet--that humans cannot see.
In fact, many songbirds have feathers that reflect ultraviolet light. This light is used to communicate species, gender, and perhaps even social standing. Birds can see this ultraviolet light under normal, daylight conditions. Humans require the assistance of a black light.
Why do birds see better than humans?
1) Both birds and humans have photoreceptive 'cones' in the retina located at the back of the eye. These cones allow us to see color light. The human eye contains 10,000 cones per square millimeter. Songbirds, for example, have up to 12 times this amount or 120,000 cones per square millimeter.
2) In humans, these photoreceptive cones consist of three types. Each cone is sensitive to red, green, or blue light. This is called trichromatic color vision. Birds have an extra cone for quadchromatic color vision. This extra cone expands the visible light spectrum, allowing birds to see ultraviolet frequencies.
3) During low-light conditions, both humans and birds rely on photoreceptive ‘cell rods’ in the retina. The human eye has 200,000 cell rods per square millimeter. Some birds, such as owls, have up to 1,000,000 cell rods per square millimeter.
4) Bird eyes, on average, account for 15% of the mass of the bird’s entire head. Human eyes, by contrast, account for less than 2% of the head.
5) Bird retinas, in contrast to humans, contain no blood vessels. This prevents light scattering and thus provides birds with greater visual acuity than humans.
Here are other ways to reduce bird strike occurences in homes and small buildings:
• observation Bird strikes often follow a pattern - the same windows on a house or building may be repeatedly struck, while others are never struck. Observation and attention to bird attractions such as water, food and cover, will help identify the small percentage of glass area which causes the most problem.
• reduce window reflection Put a screen or a shade cloth over the window which is nearest to bird activity. A shade cloth, available at hardware stores, is a plastic mesh that allows you to see through, yet keeps the windows from having reflections. If you have blinds, turn them so they are slightly closed, this will reduce reflection. White shears also work to reduce reflection while being able to see through.
• CollidEscape This transparent film adheres to the exterior surface of a window, and allows ample light to pass through to the interior, while reducing the window's exterior reflectivity and transparency. Presently used for commercial and retail advertising on glass. The cost is approximately $4.00 US per square foot.
• place a hawk silhouette in your window Most smaller birds will avoid the company of hawks, especially the sharp-shinned hawk which flies low into cover, often near feeders, and preys on small birds. A hawk simulation can be placed on your window or door to discourage birds from flying in this direction.
A life-sized silhouette, made of wood or plastic, can be attached to glass areas near feeders or bird activity. It should be hung on the outside of the window so that it moves a bit in the wind.
Hanging a plastic owl is not effective over time, as the figure never moves and birds quickly learn to ignore it.
• tack up a temporary cover Sometimes a more-aggressive behavior occurs, typically in the breeding season, where a bird repeatedly 'attacks' a window. Seeing its own refection as another bird, it's trying to drive it away, as songbirds are competitive during breeding times. A cloth, piece of netting or solid material can be placed on the outside of the window for a few days to break the bird of its habit. Or you can install indoor-outdoor blinds on the outside of the window.
• place sun ornament, crystal or other objects in your window Sun ornaments, crystals, strips of cloth and other objects in the window will help birds know they can't fly through. Avoid hanging plants in front of the window - this can further confuse the bird who may fly towards the plant looking for shelter. Double-pane windows have enhanced reflection and are harder for a bird to see through; hanging objects would work better when placed outside the window. Suncatchers or Fly-Through Window Magnets work well for this purpose.
• locate bird feeders close to, or further away from windows Feeders should be either further back in the yard or up close within 2 or 3 feet of the window. By placing the feeder up close, birds come in at a slower speed; they're less likely to get hurt during escape because window stikes occur at slower speed. By placing the feeder further out (10 feet or more), the bird has more room to manoevre. Window bird feeders do not encourage bird window strikes.
• block 'through-house' line of sight to the outdoors Are any windows in your home oriented such that, from the outside, there is a clear view through the house and to another window looking to the outside? A bird may see this as a flight path. This can be changed simply by putting up a shade on the one window, or closing a door or similar obstruction which breaks the open view.
If you find a bird stunned by a window collision: In many cases when a bird collides with a window, it is just stunned and will flying again within an hour, after they regain their senses. With gloved hands, carefully pick up the bird and place it in a safe area away from cats and other predators. In cool weather, place the bird in a well-ventilated box in a warm area to recover. Avoid handling the bird and the box as much as possible. Never handle birds or any other wild animal with your bare hands.
Mealworms are not really worms at all but are the larval form of the darkling beetle (Tenebrio molitor). They are clean, easy to raise, do not carry human diseases and most importantly are a nutritious food supplement readily accepted by bluebirds.
Live mealworms can be offered to bluebirds to:
Entice them to use a nest box
Assist the incubating female to find food quickly so she does not have to leave her eggs for long periods of time
Act as supplementary food for nestlings if food becomes scarce when weather conditions prevent the parents from finding insects
Help them survive during spells of severe winter weather
Perhaps the biggest challenge is to try to attract bluebirds to your yard with live mealworms. If you already have bluebirds and just want to ensure they stay, live mealworms can be an effective enticement. If you have never or rarely seen a bluebird in your yard, chances are they will not show up just because you have put out mealworms. What will happen is that other birds in your yard will find them and quickly consume the entire offering. So unless you have bluebirds around, it could be a costly and unrewarding venture to offer live mealworms in the hopes of attracting them. However, in cold climates, small over-wintering songbirds like chickadees, nuthatches, etc. appreciate a small hanging tin cup of live mealworms as much as bird watchers enjoy watching them come.
There are several types of feeders that can be used, or you can just scatter live mealworms on the ground. The latter method is least advised as live mealworms are attractive to most birds and they might all be eaten before bluebirds can find them. The best type of feeder is the hopper style where the live mealworms can be placed inside the feeder with the bluebirds entering from a hole at either end. Naturally curious, bluebirds will readily explore this type of feeder and quickly recognize it as a food source. The 1 ½" hole at each end will effectively exclude larger birds. Smaller birds will soon catch on, but an aggressive male bluebird will usually defend "his" feeder, especially if he and his mate are nesting nearby. Some find that putting a flat saucer with a few worms in it on top of the hopper feeder will help draw the bluebird’s attention to the location of the feeder. Once they become familiar with the routine, the saucer should be removed and live mealworms placed inside the feeder. The location of the feeder can also be moved as the birds become familiar with it, and then moved to a spot where it is easier for you to watch them feed. One of the highlights of feeding live mealworms to bluebirds is watching the fledged young start coming down to the feeder, first begging to be fed and eventually figuring out for themselves how to get the tasty treats on their own.
Because they should be used as a supplemental food, live mealworms should only be offered once or twice a day unless poor weather conditions dictate more frequent feeding. A hundred or so worms offered morning and evening would be adequate for a pair with a box of nestlings.
Fiddle Creek Farms Live Insect Care Instructions
Cricket CareClick Here to Buy Storage Remove the crickets from the shipping box as soon as you get them. Keep the egg crates or partitions from within the shipping boxes to use within your own cricket container. These egg crates provide a climbing area for the crickets, allowing them to spread out, de-stress, and enjoy their new home. You can use our throwaway cardboard tubes to make it easier to catch the crickets for feeding. Crickets ½" and larger need to be kept in an 18-20 gallon container that is at least 15" tall. You'll need a container that's slick enough on the inside to prevent the crickets from climbing out. Also, crickets require a good amount of ventilation. If you use plastic tubs or aquariums as a cricket enclosure, don't use a lid. Remove any potato used in the shipping box. Crickets don't need bedding material; using it can actually harm their health and life span.
Ideal Temperature The ideal temperature range is between 70°-75° F. Avoid temperatures above 80° and below 65° F. The cricket container should never be exposed to high humidity, direct sunlight, or cold drafts. Keep the container dry, and provide plenty of ventilation. Crickets shipped during cold weather might arrive looking dead; just release them into the container and allow them 3-4 hours to warm up. Cold temperatures can cause them to become dormant, but a few hours at room temperature usually perks them right up.
Food and Water Always make fresh Cricket Power Food and Easy Water available in shallow containers (like our Easy Water Tray). Keep no more than a two-day supply in the container at any time, replacing the supply of food and water every two days. Following this rule will decrease your cricket mortality rate. Never mix the Power Food and Easy Water together. Avoid fruits, vegetables, or a bowl of water, which can cause bacteria growth, increased mortality, and a bad smell.
Cleaning Keeping the cricket container clean will ensure a longer, healthier life for your crickets, and will allow you to keep them longer. To clean the container, remove any dead crickets, shed skins, and waste material. Wash the container out with hot water (you can also use a very mild bleach solution) between cricket shipments. Thoroughly rinse the container and allow it to dry before adding a new batch of crickets. Never expose your crickets or cricket container to any kind of pesticides or cleaning solution other than a mild bleach solution.
Fruit Fly CareClick Here to Buy Storage Fiddle Creek Farms flightless fruit flies can be stored in the plastic tubes they're shipped in. Simply remove the plastic cap and to improve air flow into the vial. You can then remove the foam plugs when you want to dispense flies.
Ideal Temperature Flies should be kept at or near room temperature. Although the temperature is not critical, cool temperatures will slow fly production and warm temperatures will result in bacteria and mold growth in the medium.
Reproducing Keep at least half of the flies in the vial for reproduction purposes for several days after you receive them. In most cases, several generations of flies will be produced over the five to six weeks that the medium will last. At room temperature, Drosophila melanogaster will complete a life cycle in 12 to 15 days. It takes about 25 days for Hydei sturdivant.
Mealworm CareClick Here to Buy Ideal Temperature, Storage and Maintenance Mealworms purchased in cups should be stored in the refrigerator (a range of 42°-55° F). Mealworms purchased in bulk require a bit of prep work before they're stored in the refrigerator. Bulk mealworms are shipped in a box containing egg crate. The worms need to be transferred into a plastic container (the quantity of worms determines the size of your container). If your container has a lid, it will need several aeration holes. Fill the container with about 1" of mealworm bedding, add the worms, then layer another 1" of bedding on top. Mealworms can be kept in the refrigerator for up to two weeks with very little maintenance. After two weeks, the mealworms should be removed from the refrigerator, and a small amount of Easy Water should be added to the top of the bedding. Allow the mealworms to stay at room temperature for about 24 hours. This will allow them enough time to "wake up" and become more active so that they can consume food and water. The mealworm bedding is their food source. After the 24 hours have passed, remove any remaining Easy Water and place the worms back in the refrigerator. Repeat this process on a two week schedule.
Superworm CareClick Here to Buy Ideal Temperature, Storage and Maintenance Superworms are tropical insects that require warmer temperatures than standard/giant mealworms. Superworms' ideal temperature range is 70°- 80° F. Cupped superworms can be stored in the cups for up to two weeks. Bulk superworms will be shipped in a box with egg crate. Store your superworms in a plastic container between two layers of mealworm bedding (2" on bottom and 1/2" on top). Good container guidelines for a superworm container include dimensions about twice that of a shoebox, at least six inches tall, without a lid, and of sturdy plastic construction. (Small cat pans usually work well.) Add a small amount of Easy Water every other day to provide moisture for the worms. Depending on the quantity of superworms, fresh bedding should be added every week to two weeks to maintain the 2 ½" layers. Plan on completely replacing the bedding every three to four weeks.
Waxworm CareClick Here to Buy Ideal Temperature, Storage and Maintenance Fiddle Creek Farms waxworms can be stored for a couple of weeks if kept at 55° F. This is the ideal temperature for waxworms; however, most refrigerators are a little colder than this. Often, the butter tray on the door of your refrigerator is the best place to find this ideal temperature. It's better to keep waxworms at room temp with low humidity than it is to store them in a refrigerator that is colder than 40° F in its warmest area. Cupped waxworms should be stored in their cup. They have entered a stage in their life cycle where they no longer consume food. They are living off the fat supplies in their bodies. This means you'll see them growing smaller the longer you keep them. Always remove any dead (black) wax worms from the container. It's extremely important that they be stored in low humidity.
